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I am starting this thread in order to help everybody get the most out of our new weapon of choice for the next decade, rFACTOR 2 (shit yeah).

Anything I come across in forums, teamspeak or by mistake I will test on my system before posting here. rF1 was an ongoing learning curve for me for years and some stuff I stumbled upon late in the piece I wish I had of known about a long time ago.

So if you guys find anything that you might think we all should be aware of please post it up upon discovery as I know from experience that one little change in our player files can make a hell of a difference to our whole rF2 experience and then we forget we've done it only to find out five years later some poor bastard has no idea his game could be so much better. (Guilty).

Just remember sometimes you'll read some little "superhack" (new term for the rF2 dictionary ) and think "that's only for three screens.........fuck it I only have one move on. Other boys have three!!
Result: Superhack lost for 5 years.

Ok, oh and if you read something that you already knew That's a good thing.

INCH.

Normally what takes the largest part of the GPU processing are the cars parked in the boxes more than the boxes building itself. I was looking into the existent Le Mans versions and they appear to have the same 3D object for the Boxes building, which is a bit overdone indeed (too many vertices). I'll redo it with less polygons but if you want a stronger impact in your FPS low this *.PLR variable:

Garage Detail="0.50000" // LOD multiplier when vehicle is in garage (0.01-1.00)

Try 0.1 or something and you probably will get more FPS when driving through the main straight.

How do I get a better Frame Rate?
This is a graphic intense sim but this seems to have helped everyone that I race with.
You need to do this in the order posted for it to work correctly.
1- While in the game, go to the Graphics/Audio tab.
Set Opponent Detail and Player Detail to LOW.
Exit the game.
2-Open the YourName.PLR file.
Scroll down to [ Graphic Options ] and look for these lines.
Player Texture Override="-1"
Opponent Texture Override="-1"
You can change the number from 1-3
Low texture= 1
medium= 2
High= 3
I suggest the 3 setting like so
Player Texture Override="3"
Opponent Texture Override="3"
Don't forget to take out the - sign when doing this
Basically you get the lower detail model but with higher res skins.
This is by far the best FPS tweak I have found.
Thanks to Kevin Paliwoda for pointing this out.

I use this trick for many Frames(100) steady on Tripples, i can live with it.

Greetings Mikk

What are the implications of the lower detail model? Parts missing? Why would
one want high-res skins, but with less detail?

As said before, best compromise for me to get steady 100 Frames to feed my
100 Hz 3x27". Not everything is round what should be round, only remarkable when driving nearly ass to nose^^. Hires Skins are much more urgent.Try it and you'll see, no big thing to do it.
Mikk

What were those graphics settings you mentioned the other night Dave, Settings to fix that 'Washed out' look I get.

rFactor 2 look "washed out", opaque?

Running windows 7 in windowed mode ??

Right click on your launcher shortcut, go to properties, compatibility and tick "Disable desktop composition" CLICK APPLY.

This gets rid of windows aero running in the background. Worth a try.

Stolen fair and square off =wITTsEnd= on TS last night.

Cheers buddy.

Good work Dave.
With ORA's annual Monster 500 (500 km at Nords)on December 12th these tweaks will be undoubtedly appreciated.

The garage LOD and Texture Override are one's I haven't heard of before so it will be interesting to see the difference.

The shortcut tweak is one I have known and used for a while even though I don't use windowed mode.
With games that use a launcher I play it safe and do the tweaks to the game exe as well as the launcher.
I also disable visual themes as well as the desktop composition plus select run as admin.
I have even gone one step more and use the Windows 7 Basic desktop theme.

Make sure HDR is turned on in rF2.

Glad to hear Paps now has a more pro rF2 attitude.

If you don't mind Dave I would like to share the tweaks, with credits noted, to the ORA crew soon.

That's what this is all about Adsta "sharing the info". Feel free to add and steal as you please.
Credits are not required at all mate, most of this stuff I've found elswhere on the net.

Just chasing the old "full grid days of rF1".
You were there, we've fought over the same bit of road and loved it. Think we are after the same result.
Cheers.

(More going up today).

This one could go on forever so I will it make very clear from the start, this is how "I HAVE MY G25 WHEEL SETUP".After hours and hours of reading and testing. This will always be a personal preference item.
There is no right or wrong in my opinion.
All this information was sourced from here. isiforums.net/f/showthread.php/19034-Gui...-being-in-the-Zone-D

It is a long and ongoing read so here is what I got from it in short.

Step 1:
Go into logitech profiler, click options then Global profile settings and turn everything to zero% except overall effects strength, put it at 100% and tick the box at the bottom enabling "ALLOW GAME TO ADJUST SETTINGS".
Degrees of rotation is irrelevant. That's why you ticked the box.
If you don't have a profiler there is one in downloads. (64 bit)

Step 2:
Go to downloads and get the pedal overlay zip file, unpack and drop the 2 files into your plugins folder. This will be used to check for clipping. In other words you can turn up the FFB in game until this gadget says stop.

Step 3:
Load the sim and notice your wheel has next to no resistance? That's because no FFB info is being sent to it yet. rFactor 2 does all its FFB in game electronically and doesn't rely on 2 old trampoline springs to make you feel like you are driving a car.(even if the logitech "SPRINGS" are electronic) If we "hook these springs up" via the profiler it masks the electronic signals rF2 is sending.

Turn MINIMUM FFB to zero and SMOOTHING to zero
Now use Techades' pedal plugin that should be at the top left of your screen to adjust the CAR-SPECIFIC FFB up or down until you get the steering bar turning red only occasionally maybe over ripple strips or brake locks. As is said in the link up top RED is clipping.

Then I adjust the MINIMUM FFB up until while sitting in car I get a slight oscillation and I'm happy about there. The more you take this setting up the more oscillation you get and then you have to apply SMOOTHING (read damping) to get rid of it and the more signals you lose.
I personally try not to use it.

If I was you, I would click on the link up top and read the first page at least. It changed my rF2 experience for the better by a long shot.

I bought a cheap wheel, it came with a free dead zone and only 3Nm of torque. But I believe I am now getting the most it has to offer.
Speaking of which if you own one of these cheap wheels or the 27 you can get a bit more ooomff out of it by going to your userdata/player/controller file and changing this from default 2.5 to

"Steering torque capability":3,

If you think I've got it all wrong please refer to the first section of this article.

Dave.

I hate my wheel "free-wheeling" when I'm not in a game, cause I rest my chin on it sometimes. I leave my profiler on defaults with the box ticked for that reason. I leave mine on 900 too, mostly for compatibility with all games, not just rF2. Like you said though, for rF2, it's all nonsense in the profiler once you've ticked the box...

ps oscillation sux realisms balls a bit imo

More Dave more... FXAA and HDR on mine look a treat. But mine is never smooth unless I select video sync. Even 150 frames...looks like stutters... Switch on "video" sync and BAM... Silky smooth.